I had the best time of my life in these two Japanese cities (and no, not Tokyo)

The iconic glow of the Dotonbori neon lights dance in the reflection of the rippling water. The night air is charged with excitement as a symphony of Japanese victory chants echo through the streets.

We hear a distant and boisterous splash, quickly followed by another and another. Thousands of Hanshin Tigers fans gather on Dotonbori bridge to plunge gleefully (if they make it through the wall of police) into the river below to celebrate their first Central League title win in 18 years. This was my welcome to Japan’s kitchen, Osaka, on one of the most energetic and memorable nights in the city’s recent history.

What’s Osaka famous for?

I was fortunate enough to experience two Japanese cities, but my journey started in Osaka. The third largest city in Japan, second largest in population and home to the country’s leading food scene. It’s well-known as Japan’s culinary capital, with speciality restaurants serving traditional dishes like sukiyaki and shabu-shabu (both thinly-sliced beef and vegetable hotpots) to one of the hundreds of street food vendors serving up Osaka’s famous okonomiyaki (cabbage-filled pancakes) and takoyaki (battered octopus balls), to mention a few highlights.

The Dotonbori district is the Piccadilly Circus of Osaka, only it's much better. It’s like stepping into a carnival of flavours, lights and sounds, where giant neon signs like the famous Glico Running Man competes for the attention of the crowds against the towering crap sculptures beckoning you to indulge in the sizzling street food, making it a sensory overload like no other.

Does Osaka have a good nightlife?

When the sun sets in Osaka, the city’s heartbeat finds its rhythm. From cosy speakeasy bars serving Japanese-made whiskey to lively izakayas serving sake along with delicious traditional sushi to sleek cocktail bars delivering you the finest Japanese gin, and finally to one of the hundreds of buzzing karaoke bars where you can sip pint after pint of Ashai.

Only, Osaka isn’t just an outright modern metropolis. Beneath the neon playground is a wealth of ancient winding alleys embellished with historic Japanese lanterns and centuries-old temples and shrines like Hozenji. Built in the 17th century, Hozenji Temple pays homage to Fudo Myoo, one of the five guardians of Buddhism. Take a meaningful second out of your evening to visit the temple and make a wish by sprinkling it with water.

Is Osaka good for shopping?

If you’re like me and you need to buy everything in sight during your holidays, then Osaka is the perfect place to pick up things that are difficult to find in the UK and are much more affordable. In Shinsaibashi (the city’s main shopping area), you can stock up on things like pure matcha powder, cleansing Japanese foot patches, Utena Matomage hair sticks, beautiful handmade crockery and authentic chopsticks – all at a very reasonable price. Kuromon Ichiba Market is an absolute dream for kitchen gear – I would’ve returned home with an entire kitchen if it was possible.

Running north to south, cutting through the city’s heart, is Midōsuji. It’s the primary connecting street in Osaka and beneath it lies the first-ever subway in Japan. If you have a penchant for designer stores, whether it’s window-shopping or legit shopping - Midōsuji Boulevard hosts all the major outlets like Chanel, Hermes and Dior. Nestled on Midōsuji is the five-star hotel I was fortunate enough to call home during my stay, the wonderful W Osaka.

What’s W Osaka like?

W Osaka opened in March 2021 becoming the first W hotel in Japan. If you’re one for losing your bearings in a new city – you’ll always be able to find W Osaka. It boldly asserts its presence against the city’s urban streetscape, showcasing a contrasting, all-black, glossy exterior. W Osaka will always be looking over your shoulder – a reassuring safety net for the mindless wanderer.

Inside, you’re dazzled by a kaleidoscope of vibrant hues, eclectic artwork and avant-garde installations from the lobby to the bedrooms, every element of W Osaka has been well-thought-out and developed with consideration.

The hotel has two delightful bars and an entire wellness floor, including exercise equipment, a neon pool and a restorative spa. I was awestruck by the bedrooms, especially by the stunning pixel art wallpaper that depicted the iconic neon signs, the street food vendors and even the river-jumping celebration ritual in Dotonbori. The views from the bedrooms are truly spectacular. Just dropping these here so they can speak for themselves…

How is the food at W Osaka?

The hotel has four different restaurants. Oh.Lala, a colourful brasserie that fuzes French ingredients with Japanese influences. Living Room, the vibrant hub of the hotel offers multiple cuisines, mouth-watering cocktails and a live DJ.

Teppanyaki Mydo, where you can find authentic Japanese flavours ​and teppan cuisine mixed with Osaka’s culinary history, also allows you to pick your own traditional Japanese knife. Naturally, I opted for the biggest butcher-like knife, which was risky considering my clumsiness, but alas, I and all my fingers survived.

Last but not least, there’s the secret 10-seat omakase restaurant, Sushi Ukiyo. ‘Omakase’ translates to ‘I leave it up to you’, where diners hand over complete control to the chef.

Typically, the chef will curate a custom-tasting menu and then artistically construct it right in front of you. It’s intentionally hidden within the third floor of the hotel, exclusively open to those in the know and only marketed by recommendation – an honest testament to the skill and dedication of the edomae-sushi master chefs who often study for up to ten years. Our menu was around 15 courses, some of my favourites were the steamed black abalone, chu-toro and the Japanese tiger prawn.

Is Osaka Castle worth visiting?

Just a short walk, bike ride or jog away from the doors of W Osaka is the most prominent and historic building in the Kansai region of Japan, Osaka Castle. This architectural marvel stands proud, boasting a history as rich and colourful as the flora surrounding its grounds. Though its history dates back to 1583, the concrete castle we see today is an exact reconstruction of the original 16th-century icon that faced numerous rebuilds following attacks and an inferno caused by lightning strike. As you step through the imposing stone walls, you’re transported back to the Edo Period of samurai and shoguns. Osaka Castle is a must-not-miss experience if you’re visiting the city.

We may visualise Japan as a beacon of ultra-modern technology and futuristic innovation, and rightfully so. However, it’s the country's rich history and profound cultural heritage that truly define its greatness; it’s certainly what attracted me. There was no better place to immerse myself in history and tradition than my second and final destination in Japan, Nara – just under an hour's drive from both Osaka and Kyoto.

What’s Nara famous for?

Nara, was Japan’s very first permanent capital, back in 710 AD, the country would change its ruling city each time a new emperor attained the throne. Initially, much of the Japanese culture was absorbed from neighbouring China. It wasn’t until the establishment of Nara, over 1300 years ago, that Japanese culture really began to flourish. Nara played a crucial role in shaping the foundations of Japanese society and identity, laying the groundwork for centuries of artistic, religious, and culinary innovation to come.

There's a distinct sense of calm that automatically envelops you in Nara, it’s a vast contrast to the frenetic pace of its neighbouring cities. It stands as a serene oasis, urging you to embrace the beauty of simplicity in true Japanese style. There’s no better place to immerse yourself than Todaiji Temple, an ancient Buddhist temple originally constructed in 728 AD back when Nara was Japan’s capital. It is among the largest wooden buildings in the world, and it has been recognised as one of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara by the UNESCO World Heritage Convention.

We toured the temple with a local Buddhist Priest, inside sat The Great Buddha statue that was created by the combined efforts of 2.6 million people in 752 AD, it’s around 15 metres tall and even has 2.54 metre-long ears! Surrounding the statue is The Great Buddha Hall, the largest of its kind.

We were so grateful to be invited into the Priest's beautiful home where his wife was preparing for an upcoming traditional Japanese tea ceremony. We couldn’t help but notice how beautiful and youthful her hands were. She revelled in the compliment and gave away her secret hand cream recipe - mashed-up bananas and coconut oil. Once again, the people of Nara showed us that there truly is beauty in simplicity. *Throws L'Occitane hand cream over my shoulder*.

What's special about the deer in Nara?

Throughout all of Nara, hundreds of deer roam freely, it’s quite magical. According to local legend, Nara's deer were once considered divine messengers of the gods, and to this day, they hold a sacred place in the hearts of locals and visitors alike. We spent one morning Deer Calling (Shika Yose) which is a tradition of Nara that dates back to 1892, waking them up for breakfast with the enchanting sound of the natural horn.

A bouncy herd of deer ascended from the forest, it somewhat resembled the stampede in The Lion King, only much less aggressive. We stood prepared with special deer-friendly biscuits ready for feeding, they’re not shy, they’ll suss you out, pockets-and-all until you reveal bare, biscuit-free hands. It was honestly such an incredible experience – a core memory that I will never forget.

What’s JW Marriott Nara like?

During my time in Nara, I’m staying at the first international luxury hotel in the region, JW Marriott Nara. Its design seamlessly integrates local Nara culture and heritage with modern Japanese elegance.

There are multiple nods to the local sacred deer throughout the hotel, one of the grandest being the nine-foot mural overlooking The Flying Stag bar in the lobby. The lobby is just spectacular. British designer, Joanna Biggs, took inspiration from the scale of the temples in Nara and brought elements of their timber design to life within JW Marriott Nara.

When you walk into the hotel, she wanted it to feel like you were walking into a grand, luxurious Japanese house, with gentle detailing that echoes the arts and crafts around Japan and Nara - and it does just that. While you’re there, to put aside the scale of the place, it still really feels like a comforting home away from home.

What’s the food like at JW Marriott Nara?

It’s believed that Nara was the last stop along the famous maritime Silk Road, which is why JW Marriot aptly named their multi-concept food theatre – Silk Road Dining. This restaurant is sophisticated and breezy and tends to get quite busy, nevertheless, it always felt nonchalant. For breakfast, there’s a wonderful buffet serving up all the Japanese-faves like congee and miso soup there’s even a rice bowl station with all of the trimmings. It’s a perfect fusion of Eastern and Western ingredients and techniques, so you could opt for American waffles or scrambled eggs if you crave them. I particularly loved the Hello-Kitty-themed matcha latte.

For me, my stand-out food experience was at the hotel’s signature restaurant, AZEKURA. It offers three different styles of Japanese cuisine, Teppanyaki, Sushi and Kaiseki. Each style has a separate dining area to ensure guests have an authentic Japanese dining experience. We were sitting only a couple of feet away from the teppan, where the head chef would toss and turn all of the wonderful ingredients right in front of us, the flavours filled the room and bright amber flames reached for the ceiling.

You cannot visit Japan without experiencing authentic teppanyaki dining, never have I ever roared and clapped my way through a meal so much, it was by far the best performative dining experience I’ve ever had. We ate delicious grilled seabream, sauteed Ise lobster and Japanese Kuroge beef, each dish carefully paired with local sake. I genuinely didn’t want this meal to end.

I’ve become quite a fan of Japanese sake, it’s a lovely alternative to champagne or wine with dinner. Each bar has an extensive selection of Japanese sakes, whiskeys and gin. One of my favourite gins was Kikka Gin, brewed at a local family distillery Yamato Distillery. It’s special because it has a mellow taste of yamato tachibana, a zesty citrus fruit. It's considered to be the oldest citrus plant in Japan, over 2000 years old.

My thoughts overall?

Japan’s renowned cleanliness and organisation are evident in both Osaka and Nara, making every exploration seamless and stress-free. I was super surprised by the cost of everything in Japan. I assumed meals, drinks, and shopping all to be super expensive, but, due to the Japanese Yen being weak at the moment – it was much more reasonable than expected. Now is a very good time to visit.

My journey through these two Japanese cities was nothing short of magical, I quite literally kept zooming out on google maps like “Oh shit, I’m really in Japan”. While Osaka’s vibrant energy and bustling streets captivate, Nara, often overshadowed by its bustling neighbours, holds its charm waiting to be discovered.

Osaka and Nara complement each other perfectly, offering a diverse yet harmonious blend of Japanese experiences. While Osaka dazzles with its modernity and authentic street food, Nara whispers tales of ancient traditions and natural wonders. Together, they paint a complete picture of Japan’s multifaceted allure, leaving travellers (myself included) enriched and enchanted. So whenever you plan your Japanese adventure, don’t overlook the serene beauty of Nara – it’s a captivating corner waiting to be uncovered, and a perfect companion to the vibrant spirit of Osaka.