Shellac nails: what they are, benefits and how they differ to gel

If you love a fresh, shiny manicure, chances are, you'll have already come across shellac nails. The long-lasting nail polish is known for its staying power and deliciously glossy finish. Manicurists have long given shellac their seal of approval and its a hit amongst those who favour a life-proof, chip-resistant manicure.

The most common misconception when it comes to shellac though, is that they're simply any old gel nail, but, shellac is a little more specific than that. Here's everything you need to know about the manicure and why we reckon it's worth the hype…

What is shellac?

Shellac is a form of gel polish that belongs to the nail brand CND, so if the nail shade you've chosen is from another brand, it's not shellac. “CND shellac is a high-performance 14+ day wear gel polish,” explains CND educator, ​​​​Sarah Marr. “It offers a high gloss finish, easy and quick removal and over 160 shades to pick from,” she adds.

Unlike the regular polish you'd pick up in boots, Shellac has an acrylic base that's activated (and hardened) under a UV lamp, but it's softer than other gels. It's more of a hybrid between gel polish and traditional nail polish.

What is the difference between shellac and gel nails?

In terms of customer experience, the difference between shellac and other gels is not hugely noticeable. Shellac tends to feel ever so slightly softer. The shades differ, too, although shellac has plenty to choose from. “The main difference is the ‘butterfly’ removal," says Sarah. "Where most gel polish ranges require filing and sometimes 20 minutes of soaking to remove, CND shellac should not require buffing and can be removed in as little as 5 minutes depending on which topcoat has been used.” This is because the formula contains tiny microscopic tunnels throughout the polish. Come removal, acetone remover can penetrate through these tiny tunnels all the way to the base layer to release it from the nail without scraping and forcing. The coats should break into tiny pieces and self-remove without much force.

What is shellac made of?

Both gel and shellac polishes have an acrylic base. Gel polishes are made with a mix of oligomers (acrylic monomers) that combine and harden under a UV light. Shellac works in a similar way, but it combines a mix of gel polish (for longevity and strength) and traditional nail polish (for the colour pay off) to create a manicure that's thinner than regular gel polish but harder than regular nail polish.

What are the benefits of shellac nails?

Shellac nails give a beautifully glossy finish and their long-wearing formula make them perfect if you need them to last the distance. They're great for staying put through holidays, important work weeks and life events (like weddings) when you need more of a guarantee they won't budge. Plus, unlike regular polish, you don't have to wait for them to dry. The LED lamp that cures them will leave them good to go from the moment your manicurist finishes.

What are the drawbacks?

Longer-lasting manicures that involve curing the polish onto nails, like shellac, involve a harsher removal process than regular polish. And even though shellac is considered one of the gentler options, there is still the chance that it can cause damage to the nail bed, especially when removed incorrectly. The manicure should be soaked off with some gentle buffing and acetone nail polish remover. Picking, scraping and prizing it off will damage nails. And, even if it's removed gently, it's a good idea to give your nails a break every few sets.

Despite shellac having plenty of shades to choose from, gel has far more options since its not limited to one brand.

Recently there's been concern around the dangers the UV light used to set gel polishes (including shellac), pose to skin cells and more research is being done to understand if there's a long-term impact.

How is shellac applied?

“After performing a manicure and cleansing the nail plate, a base coat is applied and cured using an LED Lamp, this is followed by two thin layers of colour and finished with a topcoat to ensure the longevity of your service,” says Sarah. Each layer is cured with the lamp. There are two base coats and three topcoats that allow you to fully customise your mani to the way you like it.

How long does shellac take?

“An average appointment will be between 45-60 minutes,” says Sarah. “Longer if nail art is included,” she adds. A good shellac should spend as much, or more time on your nail prep as the actual painting, to give you the most manicured cuticles and shape.

How long does shellac last?

“It should last between 14-21 days depending on base and top coat selection,” Sarah says. Your lifestyle will contribute, too, so if you're hard on your nails, it won't last as long.

How to remove shellac?

Ideally it should be removed by a nail professional the next time you get a mani. An acetone-soaked cotton pad should be placed over the polish and held into place with foil to allow it to soak in for 5 minutes, then the polish should gently break apart so your manicurist can lightly lift it away. However, if you do need a DIY removal at home the CND Offly Fast Removal should safely remove your polish without causing damage, as long as you follow the instructions. Whatever you do, don't rip or scrape it off as you will damage and weaken your nails.

Is shellac or gel better for your nails?

Generally, shellac is considered to be slightly gentler on nails. However, if you have brittle or damaged nails, the best thing you can do to keep them healthy is give the a break from any kind of polish, and nourish your nails with a nail oil.

How to ensure it does not damage your nails?

If it's applied and removed by a trained pro, it shouldn't cause damage. The system is specifically designed to care for the nails whilst they are coated," says Sarah. However, frequent or back-to-back gel manis, shellac included, can be stressful on nails if you don't take care of them. To combat this make sure you keep up nail care at home, applying a cuticle oil regularly and wearing gloves for cleaning. Plus, if your polish chips or starts to grow out, don't be tempted to pick or peel it off, because that will definitely cause damage.

How much should shellac cost?

Prices should start at around £25, however this can differ depending on your location and the experience of your nail pro, as well as whether you're visiting a salon or having a pro visit you at home. Nail art will also cost extra.

For more from GLAMOUR's Senior Beauty Editor, Elle Turner, follow her on Instagram @elleturneruk